Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Fish and Chips!


In Nova Scotia, I went on a quest to eat the best fish and chips that I could find, and since I was in the Maritimes, I figured there was nowhere better to find the best fish and chips in Canada, if not the world.

Some background: what I consider "real" fish and chips is also called "English-style," or battered fish. If the fish is coated with a crumb coating, then it doesn't qualify. Secondly, I really have a very high benchmark to compare to. Many years ago, when I served in the Navy, I had the opportunity to be stationed in a little place called Holy Loch, Scotland, near the town of Dunoon. Up the hill, and across from the YMCA in Dunoon was a place we simply called "The Fish Bar," where they served fish and chips... *only* fish and chips, huge, steaming hot batter-covered slabs of Atlantic Cod on a bed of hand-cut fried potatoes, all wrapped in a brown paper wrapper that also served as your napkin. Seating was on the curb outside. I have never tasted food as good since.

SO here I am, in Nova Scotia, land of fishermen and fisheries, thinking I should be able to get a pretty good plate of fish and chips. Actually, there weren't many places that served it in Truro.

We did try a place called Murphy's Fish and Chips on Esplanade. I thought the fish was very good, *very* hot right out of the fryer! As I found out, that seems to be the norm for Down East; they like their food hot. The Murphy's fish was a bit on the greasy side, but that didn't deter me much. It tasted very good, and the price was moderate.

We hit a road-side stand the next day (actually looking to get a lobster roll, but they had run out of lobster), and again, the fish was almost searing hot! Pretty good, not quite as good as Murphy's.

On Prince Edward Island, I had fish and chips in a couple of restaurants, all of them batter dipped, and all served piping hot. I don't recall being disappointed by any fish and chip meal in either Nova Scotia or PEI.

Bathurst, New Brunswick, however, is where I had my least favorite and most favorite fish and chip meal. I think New Brunswick is in a world of its own when it comes to the Maritimes. For one thing, service is something that the server graces you with all in good time - when ever he or she gets to it. You are supposed to be grateful that someone is tending to your needs. I found that true in most everywhere I went except the full service filling stations, where the attendants were very friendly and quick as if their livelihoods depended on it.

The worst fish and chips appeared to be a couple of Mrs. Pauls fish portions fried (just warm this time) on a bed of fries, this at a family restaurant, so I should have guessed. The best was at what appeared to be a brand new bar opening up, where my fish was hot, floated on grease hot enough to cook the fish without soaking in, and hand-cut fries that were also fresh; excellent meal! Cynthia had what she said was the best roast beef sandwich she had ever had. Pricy, but a really nice experience in New Brunswick, of all places.

The best fish and chips, then, goes to the Meglodon Bar in Bathurst, New Brunswick, with a close second to Murphy's in Truro, Nova Scotia.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

The Great Vacation - Nova Scotia


Off on our great adventure to Down East, with the first stop in Nova Scotia. We chose Truro, not because of any great site or attraction there, but because of its central location. Just about anywhere we wanted to see was within three hours drive from Truro.

It was interesting that Truro was itself on the Bay of Fundy, location of the greatest tides on earth thanks to a giant sloshing-bathtub effect in the bay. The tremendous amount of water moving back and forth also keeps the bay stirred up, so it is a muddy reddish color all the time, something you never see in the post cards. The rock and dirt in this area is red due to iron content in the ground. The Maritimes are the northern most part of the Appalachian mountain chain, which is rich in iron, so the red dirt and clays of Alabama and Georgia, and the red dirt of Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island are actually related.